Art, Islands & the Inland Sea

Day by day

1. Day 1

   Canals and willows

   Kurashiki

   morning

   Shinkansen to Okayama with your guide, and a short hop to Kurashiki.

   afternoon

   The old merchant quarter, white-walled storehouses and willows along a stone canal.

   evening

   Dinner of Inland Sea fish, simply grilled, in a former rice warehouse.

2. Day 2

   Across the water

   Naoshima

   Night at Shiosai

   morning

   An early walk along the canal before the shops open, then a ferry from Uno port.

   afternoon

   Check in, bikes waiting, and an unhurried ride to the yellow pumpkin on the pier.

   evening

   Sunset on the terrace, the islands turning blue one by one.

3. Day 3

   Light, underground

   Naoshima

   Night at Shiosai

   morning

   Chichu Art Museum at opening, timed tickets in hand, the Monet room lit only by the sky.

   afternoon

   The Art House Project in Honmura, old houses turned over to artists, including a pitch-dark room worth waiting in.

   evening

   A private dinner of island octopus and sea bream at the hotel.

4. Day 4

   A single drop of water

   Teshima

   Night at Shiosai

   morning

   Ferry to Teshima, then bikes through terraced rice fields toward the sea.

   afternoon

   Teshima Art Museum, a white concrete shell where water beads and runs across the floor; nobody speaks above a whisper.

   evening

   Back to Naoshima, and a soak at I♥湯, the island bathhouse that is also an artwork.

5. Day 5

   The smallest island

   Inujima

   Night at Shiosai

   morning

   A private boat to Inujima, population about forty, with its old copper refinery turned into a museum.

   afternoon

   The Inujima house projects, glass and aluminium among the vegetable patches.

   evening

   A last night on Naoshima, with time to revisit whatever stayed with you.

6. Day 6

   The hill town

   Onomichi

   morning

   Ferry and train to Onomichi, a port town climbing a hill of temples and stairways.

   afternoon

   The temple walk, twenty-five temples and countless cats, with views over the narrow strait.

   evening

   Onomichi ramen, soy and pork fat, at a counter that has served it the same way for decades.

7. Day 7

   Islands by bicycle

   Shimanami Kaidō

   morning

   Electric bikes across the first bridges of the Shimanami Kaidō, the sea glittering below.

   afternoon

   Lunch of lemon-cured fish on Ikuchijima, and a ride through citrus groves.

   evening

   A support car brings you back; dinner on the waterfront.

8. Day 8

   A city that chose peace

   Hiroshima

   morning

   The Peace Memorial Park and Museum with a guide who lets the silence do some of the talking.

   afternoon

   Shukkei-en, a small garden that survived and was replanted, and a quiet hour by the river.

   evening

   Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima style, layered on the griddle in front of you.

9. Day 9

   The floating gate

   Miyajima

   morning

   An early ferry to Miyajima, the vermilion torii standing in the water before the day boats arrive.

   afternoon

   Up Mount Misen through the maple valley, with the Inland Sea laid out below.

   evening

   Stay on the island after the last ferry leaves; the shrine lanterns are lit and the deer have the lanes.

10. Day 10

    Home by the sea

    Miyajima to Hiroshima

    morning

    Grilled oysters for breakfast at the pier, then the ferry back.

    afternoon

    Shinkansen to your onward flight, luggage already sent on.

    evening

    The Inland Sea, still and silver, somewhere behind you.